2nd July 2009
LANGMUSI: GOD DAMN NOMADS
We caught the bus from Xiahe to Langmusi this morning which cost 4.50GBP and took 4 hours. There has been a new road build between the 2 towns, so the journey is now pretty comfortable compared to what it used to be like.
The buses here are so much more pleasant than in Laos or Vietnam; the music is less bangra-based and the horn usage is not as consistent. All round, much more enjoyable to travel.
The altitude in Langmusi is 3300m above sea level, so the scenery is pretty spectacular although the air is quite thin. Despite this, or maybe because of it, the air is fresh and clean and pure.
Langmusi, literally means “fairy monastery”. It is situated on the main road from Gansu to Sichuan. The town was named after an ancient legend about a fairy who turned into stone on a mountain nearby. It was originally built as a crucial academic institute for lamas studying Tibetan Buddhism, but gradually lost importance, forming a sharp contrast with the increasingly popular Labrang Monastery of Xiahe.
The town still remains, despite a few signs of decaying prosperity or perhaps because of them. It is a beautiful place, not overly plagued by tourists.
We were starving on arrival, so food was first on the agenda. I had read about ‘Leisha’s cafe’ on the internet as it is popular with backpackers. We settled there for lunch. Lizzie had Yak and noodles, which was not bad and I stuck with boring rice.
Leishas cafe:
The town itself is full of quietly observing locals, some old, rickety wooden buildings and in parts, lots of mud. Like Xiahe, there is one main street with a couple of small side streets off it. Thus, it was easy to find the Langmusi horse riding shop. After speaking to the very friendly owner, we were advised that horse trekking with the nomads may not be possible. Arggghhhh!
Apparently the nomads are currently ‘At War’ with one another. One tribe is from Gansu province the other from Sichuan. Like the East/West-side battle in USA, it seems the nomads have got some beef and are now fighting it out on the mountains. Great timing guys! The owner did know when the nomad guides will return to take the tours – as they are too busy defending their turf.
Clearly, we are pretty disappointed. We were really looking forward to it and have literally travelled thousands of miles and many hours out of our way just so we can do this. However, I guess there is not much one can do about warring nomads…. The excursion has been postponed, so we’ll sit tight for a day or two. To wile away the afternoon we went for a hike around the local area: Gansu monastery, Namo gorge and the fairy cave.
Gansu Monastery & monks:
The entrance to the Fairy Cave and their prayer offerings:
Namo Gorge:
Out walking, we were predictably followed by many Chinese tourists and were photographed incessantly. It is difficult to escape them.
It started raining so we headed back to the little town and each bought wellies. The best purchase of the trip so far! We returned to the gorge and when we encountered a stream we were able to wade through it – out of reach of the Chinese tourists! A Ha! They were left in our wake, staring longingly after us, amazed at our special footwear.
Like the other places we have been so far, there are hardly any westerners in Langmusi. There are a lot of noisy Chinese tourists, mostly families, but they aren’t really interested in talking to us, only staring. Bizarrely, other than at the gorge we haven’t seen many other people about. Where are all these Chinese tourists going?
In the evening we found a little restaurant that served mash potato, so we went there for dinner. It was the usual wooden shack of a place. I unfortunately ordered the most vile Tibetan lamb stew but Lizzie enjoyed her yak.
Currently we are in the Nomad Youth Hostel having a drink and using their free wifi. The owner Mahon speaks English and is very hospitable. They serve Baileys and Absolute Vodka – needless to say, we are very happy! Unreal to get these types of alcohol in such a remote place.
We are waiting until tomorrow lunch time to hear about the nomad trek and if it is a no-go we are heading east to Juizhaigou. I guess we’ll just have to see what happens. Que Sera Sera.
danilovescats - travels 