Ollantaytambo: Cachiccata Quarries on horse back

Yesterday we went horse back riding, up a mountain. Winnie from our hostel organised for Wethir, the guide from the previous day to accompany us. We rode up to about 4,500m above sea level… for about 9 hours. It was a day of love and hate.

Wethir met us at our hostel and took us to a local family who rent out their horses for $25 each. We paid for Wethir’s horse and gave him $50 for the day for his time. For some absurd reason, they gave me the biggest horse and put Pad’s on what looked like a pony. I did ask if we should swap, but they said no. No idea why. We trotted through town and then started going down slippy, rock built stairs away from the town. We went over the river and then began the ascent on tiny rocky tracks, with sheer sides.

The horses we were onare called Criollos and are ‘made’ for mountain climbing apparently and seemed to have little trouble navigating the tracks, veritably jumping up on to rocks. The whole thing was pretty terrifying.

The horses always rode in formation, with mine at the front. Having to lead the way up a mountain face with sheer sides was not always a confident experience. She would literally gallop ahead – not even a canter – on these tiny rocky tracks and then stop and eat until the others caught up. Bear in mind, I have only ever once been on a horse. I had no control over her whatsoever, she just did what she liked. She knew that by running fast she would have an opportunity to eat until the otehrs caught up. She had one eye open and alert for them while she ate, when they got near she’d stop eating and start walking. She was very clever, knew the drill and was completely unresponsive to me and my commands.

For some of the winding tracks we navigated, we just had to close our eyes and hope for the best. Pad’s horse in particular lost its footing several times. It was far more cautious than my horse, so we named it Cautious George. Mine was called Linda and her attitude was far too gung ho for my liking.

Wethir and a local woman we met:

We got to the quarry after about 4 hours riding and just chilled out, taking in the views and eating some lunch we’d brought with us. The quarry itself wasn’t overly interesting, to us anyway but the views were pretty nice and we enjoyed meeting the local families on the way up, dishing out sugar and cooking oil, like modern day Robin Hoods.

Paddy also had got a rucksack full of fruit for the families we’d meet on the way and drinks for us. His back and shoulders were aching. When we got to the  quarry, he was in quite a foul mood, but managed to keep it fairly under wraps. This was the beginning of the end for him.

The quarries themselves were the source for the large granite stones used in the construction of Ollantaytambo. Peidras cansadas (tired stones) were stones that never arrived at their final destination and many of these can be seen enroute.

The ride afforded brilliant views of Ollantyatambo, the surrounding area and the various snow caped mountains. The weather since we arrived here has been amazing, especially considering it is the rainy season. We have had no rain, just blue skies and hot sun. Unfortunately, Pads did not take in to consideration the effects that altitude has on exposed skin. Despite several applications of All Day SPF 30, his feet, neck and arms became a nice glowing red. It should be noted that a pair of Tom’s are not the ideal footwear choice for horse riding at altitude in the Andes.

Also at the quarry is a cave containing several skeletons. It is a sacred burial site where locals perform rituals in respect of their ancestors and heritage. It is said the skeletons are from Incan times, but I don’t know how true that is. Wethir performed another little leaf ceremony, wearing Pad’s tolerance down somewhat further.

I was terrified of having to ride back down the mountain on my horse, with the perilously sheer drops and winding little gravel paths, I thought it was a recipe for disaster. I cheered Paddy up a touch by exclaiming “I don’t want to go down on my horse!”

To add to the excitement, we took another route back. Pad’s being chucked this way and that on his little donkey. Once back on the flat, we rode back over the river but were still about a mile or 2 from Ollantaytambo. We approached a train track. I ask Wethir if we have come the right way. Yes, follow the tracks, he responds. What actually on the live track? I ask. Yes, and now we have to ride fast, because there might be a train and there is nowhere to stop, he responds. I look around, sure enough, he’s right. There is the train track and about 2 foot of space either side of the track. Nowhere to go if a train does come. Brilliant.

Bear in mind a train is a a lot wider than the actual track, literally no room for a horse stop should there be an oncoming train:

For further excitement, he starts whipping my horse making her literally belt off up the track. I hang on to the saddle, trying to keep a straight back, trying not to fall off, trying to remember whether you’re meant to bounce when they bounce or in the gap of the bounce. Mostly just trying to keep my sunglasses on my face. Linda raced for about a mile up the track and then started to peter out. I turn around. Wethir is behind me… but where’s Paddy? I ask Wethir. Where’s Patrick? Wethir turns around, starts to ride off. Don’t worry about me then, and that oncoming train.

I ride until I find a grassy verge for Linda to munch on while I wait. Turns out Cautious George did not fancy the train track race. He veered off and literally launched himself, all feet off the ground, over a ravine and in to a corn field. From there he would not budge. Considering Pad’s was already pissed off, burnt and pretty sore – the corn field was the last straw. At least, that’s what he thought.

Much to Pad’s chagrin, Wethir came and found him, helped him out the field and told him “Now you’re going to have to go even faster, in case of train.” Needless to say, he wasn’t very happy.

We rode through the town, Pad’s seething. Me and my horse having built up a new level of respect for each other, she was in control, she knew it, she knew where she was going, so I just let her do what she pleased – and she was fine. Unfortunately she knocked over a stacked chair on route through the town, which startled Cautious George quite considerably. He reared up almost throwing Paddy off. The perfect ending.

For me, I had a great day. I got to see some amazing views, without having to walk. The fact that it was a bit life or death at times just added to the experience. A novice rider would never, ever be allowed to do a ride like that in the UK and I guess that’s part of the fun. Pad’s has named it THE DAY OF HELL and the only silver lining for him was that he slept really well. Can’t please em all.

Pad’s feet:

Click here to read next post