26th July 2009
CHENGDU: RESTRUCTURE
We left Juizhaigou for Chengdu, on a flight at 7am. For a change, we had a totally uneventful taxi ride to the airport and were delivered on time with no issues. We met a Chinese student in the airport who slinked her way over to us in a bid to test out her English. At the time, I was locked in to a particularly aggressive massage chair, so I had no option but to talk to her. She told us she lived in Chengdu and that it was a beautiful city and invited us for dinner in her family’s home.
I find the Chinese so perplexing. On one hand they come across as diffident, cold and rude and yet we have met so many warm, congenial locals who have welcomed us here.
We arrived in Chengdu to heavy showers and thick grey clouds which shrouded the entire city. We had been recommended ‘Mix hostel’ and got a taxi there.
The hostel was really nice and friendly with loads of different communal areas for backpackers to chill out, eat, read, use internet, watch dvds etc.
It was dark and cosy with little fairy lights strung up everywhere and an inside pond with koi. We ordered some western food and lounged about for a bit and then found out they were fully booked. We asked the receptionist to call our alternative hostel and book us a room.
We then stood on the pavement in the pouring rain for 20 minutes, attempting in vain to flag down a reluctant taxi. If they see you are western, they drive as fast as they can in the opposite direction.
I suppose they know, as well as we do, that it is likely to be a strenuous effort deciphering the language barrier and it is easier to get a local fare than expend the effort on us.
We are now staying in Sims Cozy Garden Hostel. Our bedroom is clean and bright with a pirate style bed and an amazing shower. The bathroom is about 4 foot square and you can sit on the toilet, brush your teeth and wash your hair all at the same time. Most convenient.
We were on a bit of a downer on our arrival in Chengdu. I think I have been expecting something else. The China I have read about and was ultimately looking for, existed a long time ago. The new China is a vast contrast to the ‘Oriental Utopia’ I had imagined. Everything I thought I would see has been demolished over the years leaving behind only glimpses of the old China in the odd place or two.
The Cultural Revolution is mostly to blame for the lack of authentic, traditional buildings – but the people’s attitude towards restoration and preservation is also largely responsible. They don’t appear to appreciate all the history and culture they have. Brainwashed by Mao.
Each city we have been to looks much the same as the next. Large grey sky rises from the 50s, 60s and 70’s. No character or history unless you endeavour to seek it out. It is not very ‘Chinese’. Our Chinese Quarters in the UK have more ornate decoration than the cities here.
We have decided that 6 weeks in China without a break will probably be tough going. We have had a change of plan and will now do 5 weeks in China and visit Thailand for 1 week, to inject some fun.
We felt a little better after the creation of the new itinerary. We had a mooch around our new hostel, watched Bridget Jones Diary on the in-room DVD player and had a few drinks in the bar.
We want to visit the pandas tomorrow and asked about this at reception. They advised us to go and buy a ‘Panda card’ which would enable you entrance for just £1, as opposed to £15. A great saving.
The reception staff gave us the directions to the supermarket selling the card and off we trotted in the rain, in our very attractive ankle length ponchos. It gave us the opportunity to see a little of Chendgu and to also see all the freaky stuff they sell in Chinese supermarkets! Dead animals in jars, yum!
Local delicacy:
We are getting an early night for another early start in the morning. PANDAS PANDAS PANDAS!!!
Click here to read next post: Chengdu Pandemonium
danilovescats - travels 