Chengdu: Pandemonium

27th July 2009
CHENGDU: PANDEMONIUM

Today we were up at 6.30am for our ‘Panda Day Extraordinaire’. The intention was to volunteer at the panda sanctuary for a couple of days, but since the earthquake in Sichuan last year (2008) it has been very difficult to organise this. The main sanctuary is closed for repair and only the 2 smaller sanctuaries are open.

You are advised to arrive early at the sanctuary because pandas tend sleep most of the day. We got a minibus at 7am from the guesthouse with a group of other western backpackers and were led by, wait for it, a non-English speaking guide. Excellent!

Of all the myths about giant pandas, one of the most beautiful ones goes like this:

“Four young shepherdesses were killed while trying to rescue a panda from a leopard. When the other pandas heard what had happened, they decided to hold a funeral to honour the girls’ sacrifice.

At that time, the giant pandas were pure white. To honour the deceased girls, the pandas wore black armbands at their funeral. They were so sad that they began to cry. As their tears rolled down their faces, when they wiped their eyes the dye from the black armbands began to run and mingle with their tears.

As the pandas rubbed their eyes, the black dye made big spots. In their grief, they clutched their ears and began hugging one another closely. The black dye marked the areas where the pandas touched themselves and each other. The pandas vowed never to wash off the black dye as a reminder of the girls and the sacrifice they made.”

At the sanctuary, we were given the opportunity to stroke a panda within the enclosure at an extra cost. Lizzie and I elbowed our way to the front of the queue and went in together for some panda action. We were with the panda for about 5 minutes and posed for photos.

The panda was lounging on a big wooden seat and distracted with copious apples to eat – which he loved! They are pretty big and their fur is different to what you would expect; more like a scratchy dog, than a fluffy bear. They are incredibly beautiful and very docile.

There were numerous pandas lounging around together by the door to their sleeping enclosure. The people working there would literally walk over to them and pick them up under their arms, like big babies. They did not struggle in the least and seemed to very much enjoy human company. I was relived to see they were happy and well treated. The sancuary overall looked professional and well maintained.

On the way back to the hotel in the minibus we got speaking to an English couple; Nicola and Alan. We spent the rest of the afternoon drinking with them on the sun terrace in the hostel and arranged to go out with them for dinner in the evening. An Irish man overheard us talking about dinner plans and recommended a Tex Mex restaurant in the city.

We had a delicious meal and even the water flea swimming around lazily in our water jug did not spoil it. I pointed it out to the waitress. She just shrugged her shoulders. So what indeed.

Nicola had been working in Beijing for a year as a teacher, while Alan worked as a tree surgeon in England. Nicola passed on some great advice and recommendations for our return to Beijing.

Most importantly, she taught us the words for ‘bill please’ – pronounced “My Dan” (easily remembered) and she drew a map so we could find the night market in Beijing. so, as we already know how to say thank you, we’re now total experts. We have half a day left in Chengdu and leave tomorrow afternnon to fly south to Jinghong.

China imparts more wisdom on us:

Stayed: Sims Cozy Garden Hostel, No.211 North Section 4, First Ring Rd, Chengdu, Sichuan Province